Thursday 14th
The British may often deride Americans (Texans in
particular) for having ‘big’ things, so as if to rub it in, the North Wales
town of Conwy boasts the smallest house in Britain . The
red-painted (are they trying to make it look like a phone-box?) house is less
than 8 feet wide and the doorway is less than 6 feet high.
Conwy, famous for its Edwardian Castle (do that JFGI thing
here for history and professional photos) was a walled town. My host took me on
a very interesting walk along the top of the walls. In the following photo, a
Catholic Church (St Mary’s) sits adjacent to the wall, upon which you can some
of the ‘Stations’.
In the UK ,
when someone wishes to withdraw cash from an ATM, they’ll often say they need
to go to ‘the hole in the wall’. This hole in Conwy’s wall contains no cash,
but you can see another section of the wall (with its own hole) through it.
Thinking I was some species of Andean goat, Allan told me we
were then going to walk to the top of Conwy Mountain .
‘What do you mean “we”, paleface?’ I
said!
I surprised myself, by agreeing to ‘give it a try’ and indeed,
was able to get ¾ way up the thing before calling it quits. I was pleased that
I had attempted it else I would not have seen some of the magnificent views
from its heights, including this one, to the south-east, of Conwy
Castle on the Conwy
Estuary.
A little to the west, this view over the estuary looks
north-east toward the town of Deganwy which is on the south side of the Great
Orme – site of the Bronze Age copper mines – you remember that from a prior
posting, right?
Once again, but this time far enough away to escape the
gasps of ‘the national paranoia’, I took a photo of an activity that must
surely have been taught to most Welsh kids when they were being suckled –
mountain climbing: These kids were maybe 9 or 10 years old, so they’d likely be
fully-fledged Sherpas or mountain goats by now!. You might say this is ‘a
different flock on a different rock’!
As we left the area, I noticed a sign that should be posted
at the entrances to all public parklands in the UK . In the US , we have our 2nd Amendment, in the
UK ,
they have another form of lethal pest – and this one is fully automatic and
loaded:
After a quick lunch back in Rowen, we headed off, southwards
down the beautiful Vale of Conwy through Betws-y-Coed, a quaint little town with
several stores loaded with camping and hiking equipment for those so
inclined.
I prefer to take a more casual approach to the sites – by
car! My wife and I had been here in 2002 and I recall us having tea, scones,
clotted cream and other pastry delights in this old mill house – now converted
to a mundane clothing store!
We drove on through Capel Curig and past the remnants of a
Roman Fort, but there is little to be seen - except in one’s mind’s-eye of a
centurion freezing his arse off in his short tunic more suited to a
Mediterranean climate than the cold, drizzly air in this spot. Large pipelines
convey water from Llyn Llydaw, a lake a mile or two to the west, to what was
once an industrial site – now used for hydro-electric power generation.
The road goes SW to Beddgelert; you should do the JFGI thing
to learn of that sad tale, but we turned and headed back north toward Rowen as
the rain clouds started to drift in.
Do you remember Tal-y-Bont?
If you read an earlier blogpost, you would, I’m sure. Well, a mile or so
south of there is a small village called Dolgarrog. Lakes and reservoirs are
commonplace on North Wales – pause here for
‘Nationalists’ to hiss at the fact that some of their ‘Welsh water’ goes to
bathe and hydrate the blydi Saes (English) beyond the borders of Cymru. All
seriousness aside, this village has something in its history that it will never
forget. My friend and I climbed several hundred feet up the very steep valley
which brought despair to the village almost 88 years ago.
We returned, somber after that short stop, to Rowen for
another disastrous (for me) snooker match, but not until after I finally was
able to capture this little bouncing black bugger (I love alliterations) in my
camera. I don’t think it would be able to produce more than a few ounces, much
less ‘three bags full’!
The meal was more than filling – as were the 3 pints of
Guinness, then came the inevitable kerfuffle as the landlord’s daughter – who
had been pleasant previously, threw a hissy-fit and morphed into a witch when
she proved herself incapable of answering a simple question regarding the bill
– which she recited from, but had not shown me.
Her father, whose personality had been a good imitation of a
wet cabbage each time I had seen him previously, added ‘pratt’ and ‘plonker’ to
his repertoire as he emerged – just, I assume, to appear ‘lordly’. ‘Good
riddance’ and ’Bad cess’, I thought as Miss Muffet could be heard in the
background decrying ‘all things American’. I was beginning to tire of some
British attitudes and behavior, too.
To be continued - Her Majesties subjects, willing. LOL
SJ, I recommend a book by Paul Theroux called "The Kingdom by the Sea: A Journey around the Coast of Great Britain." It is a journal of Theroux's walking travels around the UK clockwise beginning a the top. The thing I like about it is his detailed account of good and bad. He doesn't describe his journey through rose-coloured, "touristy" glasses. He records remarkable congeniality and absurd rudeness.
ReplyDeleteI believe I have followed in his literary (if not in his physical) footsteps.
ReplyDeleteI have recorded 'good and bad' - and laid out accounts of 'remarkable congeniality and absurd rudeness'.